The illustrious quarries of Clos Fourtet

Legend has it that during the Second World War, they provided a refuge for local residents. They were also used to hide wine bottles from the German occupier We are of course talking about the famous limestone quarries in Saint-Emilion! Intrinsically linked to the history of the village for over one thousand years, they were used by stonemasons to build the monolithic church and erect monuments throughout the Gironde. But they have recently taken on a more wine-focused vocation, serving as a natural cellar for thousands of bottles of Bordeaux Grands Crus. We decided to pay a visit to the Clos Fourtet estate to see for ourselves. Located on the limestone plateau of Saint-Emilion and planted with its star grape variety, Merlot, on clay-limestone soils, this estate stands apart thanks to its quarries.

Emmanuel de Saint Salvy, Technical Director of Clos Fourtet, greeted us at the entrance and invited us to join him on an underground tour. The first thing that struck us as soon as we entered the quarries was that the surface temperature had dipped to a refreshing 13 degrees: “The temperature is stable all year round – whatever the weather outside, here it will always be 13 or 14 degrees. The humidity level is also very good with little variation. We are lucky that our quarries are in very good condition with natural ventilation.” This stability makes these galleries perfect for ageing and maturing the château’s wines. “Especially since the low variation in atmospheric pressure helps us to monitor the ageing process. There is no need for human intervention. It is a valuable ecological tool”, Emmanuel de Saint Salvy explains. In Clos Fourtet, limestone is known as a magic stone. It helps the vines to grow vigorously in Saint-Emilion and acts like a sponge, providing water reserves for vines during drought periods. It also gives the estate’s wines their unique identity.

The underground galleries are imbued with the history of this Grand Cru Classé. In this silent universe, where only the steady sound of waterdrops falling on the ground can be heard, exceptional wines are nestled. Between 6 and 12 metres below the surface of 13 hectares of vineyards, this magnificent natural cellar houses 100,000 bottles and 250 barrels! Emmanuel de Saint Salvy carefully grabbed a bottle of 1974: “The bottle hasn’t changed thanks to these outstanding storage conditions. If you taste a bottle of the same vintage stored in different conditions, the experience won’t be the same.” As we strolled along the labyrinth of cellars, lit by the warm, subtle hues of LED lights, we discovered new hidden treasures at every turn. Bottles of the 1962 vintage here, bottles of the 1965 over there. The galleries contain wines from the 1950s to the present day, preserved with the greatest of care while waiting to be labelled and delivered to their future owner. Each bottle holds a treasure from the past, the memory of a unique year retained for eternity. It is quite simply magical!