“The most memorable wine experience I ever had involves Bordeaux”
Originally from Lombardy, Melania Battiston is now Head Sommelier at Cornus, an exciting new restaurant in London. Voted Best Young UK Sommelier last year, Melania has designed one of the most appealing wine lists in the country. With just a few days to go before the presentation of the 2022 vintage in Zurich and London (4-5 November), we interviewed the 28-year-old about her love for Bordeaux Great Growths.
Hi Melania, could you tell us more about your wine journey?
I was introduced to the wine industry very randomly ten years ago. I was in London on holiday and I found a job in a wine bar. This is where I met Clement Robert, a Master Sommelier who introduced me to wine tasting. I immediately fell in love with wine and decided to stay in London (smiles). This is how everything started. For me, wine has always been a source of permanent discovery. I have never seen it as a job, but rather as something that I’m passionate about. However, when I started to take part in competitions and sit exams like the Master Sommelier, things changed. There was so much pressure. I was working in a fine-dining restaurant in Chelsea when I won the Young Sommelier of the Year award. I was really happy but I needed a break. I went to Greece and to Thailand for one year.
One year after, you’re back in London and working on a new project?
I decided to come back to London to work with David O’Connor, my former boss at Medlar. He offered me the position of Head Sommelier at Cornus, a new sister restaurant in Belgravia.
How do you “build” a brand-new wine menu? How do you work at Cornus?
That’s a very good question (laughs). In the beginning, I wanted it to be a very short menu, only featuring wines that I’ve tasted and could tell a story about. Then, I realised that I had to pick references from the wine list that I’ve built up over the years at Medlar, which is one of the best wine lists in the UK. So I included classic Burgundies and Bordeaux from very well-known producers. And I also added wines from small wine estates in Greece and Italy that work with indigenous varieties to offer something a bit more esoteric. Now, I work just by adjusting my menu according to what customers at Cornus like.
What role did Bordeaux wines play in your wine education?
Funnily enough, Bordeaux was my very first wine trip. I was invited to Bordeaux for six amazing days. I visited these prestigious Chateaux with all these very experienced sommeliers, so I felt like a bit of an imposter back then (laughs). Beyond this, Bordeaux is one of the most consistent wine regions in my wine list. Bordeaux wines are always highly in demand. They are the most sold red wines at Cornus. Maybe because the prices are highly competitive! People do not expect Bordeaux wines to offer such good value for money.
"Bordeaux is one of the most consistent wine regions in my wine list. Bordeaux wines are always highly in demand."
Talking about Bordeaux Great Growths, what are your favourite vintages?
I love 1982. We open a lot of ’82 because many customers still bring in their own bottles. And they’re very proud to open old Bordeaux vintages. I am particularly fond of the 1996 since I was born that year (laughs). I think that 2005 is also an amazing vintage. I like all the classic vintages, really. Bordeaux is like diving into something that you know but is always so reliable over the years. When you open a bottle, you’re never disappointed.
Personally, do you have any favourites in Bordeaux?
I love Bordeaux white wines. They are not very popular but they are truly exceptional. I like their richness. I like the versatility of these wines. I like the fact that white wine can be very affordable yet also really deep, powerful and sexy. One of the best wines I’ve ever tasted is a 2011 white Haut-Brion.
What is your most memorable tasting experience?
When I was working at Medlar, I was lucky enough to taste an 1865 Château Giscours. A very good customer of ours brought it and it was absolutely incredible. When we opened the bottle, every single person around the table went silent. And then, we started looking at each other like, “wow, what just happened?” The craziest part is that it was still fresh despite its age! It is the most memorable wine experience I ever had.
